Installing a Fulton Sun Shield On 1947 - 1953 Chevy and GMC Trucks

Article Author
Article Revision
Thanks to those from the Stovebolt forum for the collaboration of information.
Elapse Time
1/2 to 1 day
Required Tools
  • Drill
  • Pencil
  • Hole Punch
  • Hammer
  • Screw/Nut Driver
  • Ratchet/Wrenches
  • Tape Measure
  • Thick Blanket(s)
  • Double-sided Tape (Optional)

Series of Fulton Sun Shield you should have:

  • 807 series is the correct Fulton Sun Shield for AD trucks/panels/suburbans.
  • 800 series will work, but it was really intended for cars.
  • 1000 series (aka Deluxe Series) will also work (has a chrome strip along the leading edge).

How to identify which series you have:

  • If the wings are squared off at the ends, it's a 807 series.
  • If the edges are rounded where it meets the cab near the drip rail, it's a 800 series.
  • 1000 series: the only visor that has a stainless/chrome trim along the leading edge of the wings.

Parts you should have:

  • Left and right dog-bone brackets.
  • 2 center strip brackets.
  • 2 special bolts for the center strip brackets.
  • 2 sets of identical nuts and bolts for the center strip brackets.

Tip: A visor may have already been installed on your truck and removed by a previous owner. Open the doors and look for holes. If a previous owner had correctly installed a visor, then you should find only 4 holes on both sides and installation should be a snap. Take into consideration, that even if these holes exist, it would still be wise to review these instructions, as one of the previous owners may have put the mounting holes in the wrong location. Which may cause your visor to be too high, too low, or worse....crooked.

Mounting The Visor

Step 1:  Place a thick blanket over the roof, hood and leading edge above windshield.

Step 2:  Loosen the two bolts/screws on each of the center bracket's clamp jaws, so they will fit over the stainless center strip.

Step 3:  Back out the screws out and push them outward as if your removing the stainless center strip (this provides a gap that allows the sharp edged clamp jaw to be affixed to the center strip).

Step 4:  Carefully mount the visor wing assembly and center (upper and lower) brackets to the stainless center strip.

Step 5:  Tighten clamp jaws to the stainless center strip so they can hold the bulk of the weight of the visor (less fatiguing when working alone).

Step 6:  Tighten the interior center strip so it is fairly snug but not tight enough to lock the center clamp in place.

Step 7:  Height wise, the trailing edge of the visor should be above the rubber windshield seal and slightly covering the roof, but not by much. The dog-bone brackets are where the actual height will be determined on the trailing edge of the visor. The leading edge is determined by positioning the center clamps vertical height and the curved end brackets.

Step 8:  Measure from the bottom of the drip rail up towards the top of the door opening. This distance should be 10" to 11" to the lower edge of the dog-bone mounting flange. Remember, you can adjust the leading edge, but the trailing edge is a bit more fixed despite it's two shared hole mounts. Be careful not to lose the bolts, washer and rubber washer!

Step 9:  It is best to measure multiple times and eyeball as you go. Especially, when your ready to drill the dog-bone bracket mounting holes. The hole locations will depend on which flange your dog-bone mounting brakcets have.

Step 10:  Some dog-bone mounting brackets have an S shape flange and some have an L shape flange. If you have the L shape flange, you want to position it as close to the door stop as possible. The holes will be awful close to the drip rail but DO NOT drill through the drip rail, that is wrong. These things are installed with screws entering into the body. The mounting flanges will be covered when the doors are closed.

Illustration of the S and the L shape flange. Notice that their are 4 holes, 2 holes on each flange.

Step 11:  After making your measurements and checking them more times then you ever thought possible. Use a center punch to pre-punch the holes to be drilled. Be sure to drill towards the cab at about a five degree angle. The punch marks MUST be located inside the rail to the cab seam. Otherwise, you will drill through the gutter.

Step 12:  Mount one side first. Mount the visor so it's level when being viewed from the front, then pre-punch, drill, and mount the dog-bone bracket on the opposite side.

Step 13:  Tighten the interior center strip screws.

Step 14:  Tighten the clamp jaws (these brackets tend to rock back and forth with enough pressure, firmly hold them centered as you tighten them).


  1. Approximately 10" to 11" from bottom of drip rail to bottom of dog-bone bracket flange's edge.
  2. When the door is closed, the flange should be between the door and the drip rail.
  3. These parts have special bolts. Don't lose them. What is on the left is also on the right.

Let's Review

  1. Blanket the roof and hood. Have a step ladder handy. Best to have 2 people.
  2. Mount the center brackets first.
  3. Mount the visor and straps to the A brackets (clamp jaws).
  4. Tighten the strap screws to the bracket.
  5. Lightly, tighten the lower screws on both A brackets. Tighten them enough so that the brackets hold the visor snugly to the cab.
  6. Stand in front of the truck and view the front edge. This edge should be approximately even with the top of the rear window using a line of sight of about 5'8" high.
  7. Attach the dog-bone bracket to the end of the visor with the hinge nut first.
  8. Attach the J hook to the visor. This should be set to partially reveal the top most hole in the chrome J hook.
  9. Pull the dog-bone bracket out and over the drip rail back into place as shown in the diagram at the top of this page.
  10. Attach the screws.
  11. Do the same on the opposite side.
  12. Tighten the interior center strip screws.
  13. Tighten the A brackets (these brackets tend to rock back and forth with enough pressure, firmly hold them centered as you tighten them).

Painting Advisement

Fulton Sun Shields are made of aluminum and must be painted or they will corrode (oxidize). If your using a can of spray paint, give it a hefty coat...approximately 2 cans. This will help protect the visor until professional paint can be applied, but ALWAYS keep it painted. Even little scratches are very hard to find & can get expensive.

If you decide not to paint your visor and want to have that shiney chrome look. Then, start with 220 grit wet and dry sand paper and work your way up to 2000 grit. Once you get it shiney, using the sand paper, it will need to be polished. You'll need some kind of sealer, such as a clear coat, after its polished to prevent oxidation (it will be difficult to remove the polishing compound so that the clear coat will stick).

Most aluminum visors were designed to be painted. If you decide to paint the visor, after its stripped, use a self etching primer designed to bond to aluminum, then top coat it with the color of your choice. The underside of these visors where always painted a flat green color since the color green was proven to be the best to absorb bright sun light that reflects off the windshield and to help prevent glare.

The actual underside green paint was a zinc something or other, it's name escapes me, but it was a special paint. During World War II, they used this color in various shades to achieve the same purpose on B-17's , B-24's and P-38's. Many other fighters were painted this color as well...anywhere the pilot could see on his plane. Primarily on the nacells.