807 series is the correct Fulton Sun Shield for AD (Advanced Design) trucks/panels/suburbans.
800 series will work, but it was really intended for cars.
1000 series (aka "Deluxe Series") will also work (has a chrome strip along the leading edge).
How to identify which series you have:
If the wings are squared off at the ends, it is an 807 series.
If the edges are rounded where it meets the cab near the drip rail, it is an 800 series.
1000 series, the only visor that has a stainless/chrome trim along the leading edge of the wings.
Parts you should have:
Left & right dog-bone brackets.
2 center strip brackets.
2 special bolts for the center strip brackets.
2 sets of identical nuts & bolts for the center strip brackets.
Tip: A visor may have already been installed on your truck & removed by a previous owner. Open the doors & look for holes. If a previous owner had correctly installed a visor, then you should find only 4 holes on both sides & installation should be a snap. Take into consideration, that even if these holes exist, it would still be wise to review these instructions, as one of the previous owners may have put the mounting holes in the "wrong" location. Which may cause your visor to be too high, too low, or worse....crooked.
WARNING! Before proceeding to the next step...these are not the easiest things to mount, as your juggling and contorting the visor to mount it, while trying to avoid scratching your truck. This is a job best done with two people! Read through these instructions in their entirety before commiting to any actions.
How to mount the visor:
Step 1: Place a thick blanket over the roof, hood & leading edge above windshield.
Step 2: Loosen the two bolts/screws on each of the center bracket's clamp jaws, so they will fit over the stainless center strip.
Step 3: Back out the screws out & push them outward as if your removing the stainless center strip (this provides a gap that allows the sharp edged clamp jaw to be affixed to the center strip).
Step 4: Carefully mount the visor wing assembly & center (upper & lower) brackets to the stainless center strip.
Step 5: Tighten clamp jaws to the stainless center strip so they can hold the bulk of the weight of the visor (less fatiguing when working alone).
Step 6: Tighten the interior center strip so it is fairly snug but not tight enough to lock the center clamp in place.
Step 7: Height wise, the trailing edge of the visor should be above the rubber windshield seal & slightly covering the roof, but not by much. The dog-bone brackets are where the actual height will be determined on the trailing edge of the visor. The leading edge is determined by positioning the center clamps vertical height & the curved end brackets.
Step 8: Measure from the bottom of the drip rail up towards the top of the door opening. This distance should be 10" to 11" to the lower edge of the dog-bone mounting flange. Remember, you can adjust the leading edge, but the trailing edge is a bit more fixed despite it's two shared hole mounts. Be careful not to lose the bolts, washer & rubber washer!
Step 9: It is best to measure multiple times & eyeball as you go. Especially, when your ready to drill the dog-bone bracket mounting holes. The hole locations will depend on which flange your dog-bone mounting brakcets have.
Step 10: Some dog-bone mounting brackets have an "S" shape flange & some have an "L" shape flange. If you have the "L" shape flange, you want to position it as close to the door stop as possible. The holes will be awful close to the drip rail but DO NOT drill through the drip rail, that is wrong. These things are installed with screws entering into the body. The mounting flanges will be covered when the doors are closed.
Illustration of the "S" & the "L" shape flange. Notice that their are 4 holes, 2 holes on each flange.
IMPORTANT: Before drilling any holes for mounting the dog-bone mounting backets, take a tape measure, place the little "L or tab" at the end of the tape measure to the end of the drip rail or "gutter". Scribe a mark at 10" to 11" above the end of the rail. We suggest around 10" & that you double check these measurements at least 3 times before drilling any holes. If at all possible, it might be a good idea to pre-mount the visor using some doublesided 3M tape on the dog-bone bracket flanges since the mounting holes will be more or less "permanent".
Step 11: After making your measurements & checking them more times then you ever thought possible. Use a center punch to pre-punch the holes to be drilled. Be sure to drill towards the cab at about a five degree angle. The punch marks MUST be located inside the rail to the cab seam. Otherwise, you will drill through the gutter.
Step 12: Mount one side first. Mount the visor so it's level when being viewed from the front, then pre-punch, drill, and mount the dog-bone bracket on the opposite side.
Step 13: Tighten the interior center strip screws.
Step 14: Tighten the clamp jaws (these brackets tend to rock back & forth with enough pressure, firmly hold them centered as you tighten them).
Remember:
Approximately 10" to 11" from bottom of drip rail to bottom of dog-bone bracket flange's edge.
When the door is closed, the flange should be between the door & the drip rail.
These parts have special bolts. Don't lose them. What is on the left is also on the right.
Let's review:
Blanket the roof & hood. Have a step ladder handy. Best to have 2 people.
Mount the center brackets first.
Mount the visor & straps to the "A" brackets (clamp jaws).
Tighten the strap screws to the bracket.
Lightly, tighten the lower screws on both "A" brackets. Tighten them enough so that the brackets hold the visor snugly to the cab.
Stand in front of the truck & view the front edge. This edge should be approximately even with the top of the rear window using a line of sight of about 5'8" high.
Attach the dog-bone bracket to the end of the visor with the hinge nut first.
Attach the "J" hook to the visor. This should be set to partially reveal the top most hole in the chrome "J" hook.
Pull the dog-bone bracket out and over the drip rail back into place as shown in the diagram at the top of this page.
Attach the screws.
Do the same on the opposite side.
Tighten the interior center strip screws.
Tighten the "A" brackets (these brackets tend to rock back and forth with enough pressure, firmly hold them centered as you tighten them).
Painting Advisement:
Fulton Sun Shields are made of aluminum & must be painted or they will corrode (oxidize). If your using a can of spray paint, give it a hefty coat...approximately 2 cans. This will help protect the visor until professional paint can be applied, but ALWAYS keep it painted. Even little scratches are very hard to find & can get expensive.
WARNING! Only use an aircraft stripper compound for removing paint from any aluminum visor. Alkaline based strippers (this includes paint remover) will dissolve the aluminum & cause pitting. Caustic strippers, such as lye, lime, drano..etc, will chemically attack aluminum, so don't use them either. Aircraft stripper is designed to take paint off aluminum aircraft bodies & works the best. Most auto parts stores sell aircraft stripper.
If you decide not to paint your visor & want to have that shiney "chrome" look. Then, start with 220 grit wet & dry sand paper & work your way up to 2000 grit. Once you get it shiney, using the sand paper, it will need to be polished. You'll need some kind of sealer, such as a clear coat, after its polished to prevent oxidation (it will be difficult to remove the polishing compound so that the clear coat will stick).
Most aluminum visors were designed to be painted. If you decide to paint the visor, after its stripped, use a self etching primer designed to bond to aluminum, then top coat it with the color you of your choice. The underside of these visors where always painted a flat green color since the color green was proven to be the best to absorb bright sun light that reflects off the windshield & to help prevent glare.
The actual underside green paint was a zinc something or other, it's name escapes me, but it was a special paint. During Word War 2, they used this color in various shades to achieve the same purpose on B-17's , B-24's & P-38's. Many other fighters were painted this color as well...anywhere the pilot could see on his plane. Primarily on the nacells.